yarnevk

The nice thing about Wurm is you can interact with everything, except for the designated eye candy if you click them on the graphic updates. In Skyrim you can chase these butterflies, and even put lightining bugs in jars, which are also a recent addition to Wurm (and I hope they are only a summer bug as IRL!). While I understand these are a graphical option, they could be sold at traders for those that cannot catch them as a useful alchemy ingredient, but maybe Fo does not like it. What I don't understand is why a new flora the fern is added as eye candy only, when all other flora can be harvested, sprouted, foraged, or botanized. So what use can people think of for ferns? A poor substitute for bandages?

This is a very recent change then as I have founded three deeds since I started recently and perimeter blocked by buildings twice, in the first case I moved because they where there still there, in the second case I waited two weeks for the building to go from 50% to 100% and deed over it, but I was able to expand my perimeter to cover the door with all walls standing. Mechanically does not matter when owner is long gone as does not increase decay just blocks repair, just politically makes sure nobody else claims the building. To me there is nothing wrong with the way it was, it's called making a claim. If the owner of the building comes back they negotiate to have you relinquish your perimeter or they move. Deed rules.

This should be done by rendering and not by construction. This is a simple matter of algorithmic blending, the same jaggy line smoothing algorithms used in 2-D graphics. Since Wurm is a 2-D map just figure out when a line is on the diagonal, and blend the adjacent tiles using diagonal in addition to horizontal and vertical gradients already existing. Tiles are already blended at their borders if you look closely you see there is no abrupt transition, so technically this is the same thing extended beyond border space. This algorithm has already been in use before in video game terrain maps. The only problem to be solved is deciding on sprite placement for the waving grass, do you not do it in the blended area, or just do it with 50% less grass? I like the border intrusion of the grass coming up under fences, intruding on roads, but you do not want it happening into buildings. So this would need to be a terrain only algorithm that leaves corners as is on buildings and not blending them into terrain. The composite tiles are done on the fly, no need to make every possible combination in the library. Currently they have an alpha blending tile going L->R and it is paired with the one going R->L, just make a two more pairs for the left leaning and right leaning diagonals. Jaggie removal as ascii art, even if the - was just a composite blend of cobblestone/grass across the whole tile it would work =- ==- But would be more more effective if it was a diagonal gradient. =\ ==\ Any graphics program doing upsizing does jaggy removal so it would be easy to make a simple map showing this.

Fabled Mesa deed today, replacing Sagittarius Peak at 34x, 28y NorthEast of Little Harbor (seems to have guard upkeep, but I have never see anyone in local) and SouthEast of Home for Geriatrix (seems occasionally someone pops in to make sure the shed and boat are still there) . The deed token was gone with a crumbled fence, only took a couple weeks for the house to follow suit so I am rebuilding pastures/mines/vineyards/walls to skill up for house building. I have the exact deed/perimeters located relative to the shore line if you want them.

Updated OP with how to prospect and mine with GIMP....yes that is my gold mine and no I am not telling you my characters name and where he lives. So why did I mine when I said I was doing trees then fence? I tried to let myself out of the mine, and the big huge hairy scary spider parked outside the door bit me saying 'the mine is mine!'. I begged to differ but my longsword did not bite him back enough and I retreated inside using up all my bandages. Maybe he will let me out tomorrow, but I have no intention of letting him to hoard my gold. While in the mine I will try to figure out how to make transparent brushes that can be rotated, which is what I need for trees and fences.

If others are using it chime in if my procedural can be improved. Just because mappers did not work for me does not mean they will not work for you but that is a discussion for the mapper threads, likewise using a paint program may not work for you so feel free to post here so others know it may not work for them (limited virtual memory, etc.). I upgraded about six months ago to a budget performance system. Have an AMD Phenom II X4 925 with 8GB physical, W7SP1, Nvidia Geforce GTX550Ti. I have an idea for mining, which is to move that layer above a transparent prospect layer which is a cave floor fill and guesses at ore tiles (prospecting indicates up to 3sq. away) , and do a 50% transparent black fill for the mining layer. Then mining consist of erasing down to the prospect layer as you go, fixing up the prospect layer guesses as go, and adding the reinforced walls. Using transparent higher layers you can turn on the lower layers to keep track of where your mine is relative to terrain and deed. Fences are over in wurm/unpack/graphics/models/fences/texture, but is an inconsistent mix of overhead plan views, unfinished side views, and finished side views. My thinking is to use the finished view so you can see what type of fence it is but squish its aspect so it takes up less than half the square. Need to test if transparent patterns can be used and if they can be rotated easily. As to doing fences or mining first, depends what I do first in game. Finishing my pasture walls so I will likely do those before mining since I filled up the OSB with rocks. But tree farms look easier than fences so I will probably do those first, since I need some farm sprouts for fence shade trees. In the tree directory they have winter and fall directories, which includes some seasonal terrain for those that prefer a seasonal map look. Updated OP with more detailed map expansion step. I also turned off the cross hair (uncheck Show Grid) since it gets annoyingly fills the square when zoomed out. The Snap to Grid apparently does not save nor default, so you have to remember to check it every reload.

Seems some are a fan of the plastic day glo colors, but I would prefer a more realistic wood/concrete stain look that one would get using the natural dyes so that you can still tell what they base material is. scroll thru these Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain colors made with the Clear Tint Base Minwax® Water Based Wood Stain colors made with the White Tint Base Minwax® Express Color http://www.minwax.co...ns-color-guide/ These are easily implemented by adjusting the blend % of color vs. texture, can this at least be made an option possibly using the liquid base like water vs, oil vs. milk to control color vs. texture intensity? OTOH, I do want to make a tye-die cotton T-shirt, but I think an organic medieval version would not be as bright as the modern hippie inks

Updated the OP with a GIMP .png showing me working on a section of shoreline. I use large fonts so the pattern selector list could use some resizing, but I normally use the tiled pattern selector so the hover tip tells me which is which. The gimp tab has a thumbnail of my deed in progress, really just done roads/water and some cliffs that I will do prospect layers for Lead and Iron, and I have a tree farm I want to track as well as my veggie/grain farm. The other tab is the pattern I last created, the rightmost button on the pattern list is the pattern organizer (no idea why it is a fill bucket icon) that tabs open so just hit the refresh button in that. It is a 9k sq. pix for 128 tile sq map, that needs 2.2GB of memory, so those relying on virtual rather than physical memory would likely swap to death, so just use a smaller resize than 72dpi which I chose for reasonable 100% zoom. Pattern fill turns on my quad CPU fan but only for seconds since GIMP is multithreaded.

To be fair it happens with two Wurm alts mining, and two maps up as I was redoing them to manually resize my deed. Only happens with edited maps open, as viewing the maps to redo again into GIMP worked fine all day yesterday, and I dual client all the time otherwise. Probably some Java cache problems since the game also uses Java.

Seems I missed that one though reading the thread I would consider a program without an undo buggy. I realize to a programmer that is just a missing feature but to me that is a bug, very happy with the GIMP Undo which works just fine. My favorite joke about programmers is programmers count from zero, humans count from one. I can say that because I have a MSCS so I know that humans do not consider programmers to be so, while programmers call humans mere users. But I will try it for the other utlity tools, though no way am I redoing maps again! One thing I would like to see is a community world map that took deed and roads submittal with internal deed details optional using the 1 pixel is 1 tile with actual downscaled color. Like the official dump map without the map obfuscating 3D terrain and it would always be patchwork as people come and go. Ideally the game would autolog your own personal map for any examined tile, with tile memory similar to the life of a tree representing that you forgot what was there, Materials would be required to make the map permanent (to be sold to other players enabling cartography) but like everything else skills and material QL are required for map QL to avoid from wear and tear. Doing it that way is still far from being a global GPS automapper of other games. Even medieval societies had maps! Got my entire deed map copied into GIMP, it is very little work to resize to the .pat file as you need them, and I found there is a pattern refresh button so no need to reload. Much easier to do shorelines with layers as the road can cover up water/grass imprecision. Already used Canvas resize to expand my deed. So it was much easier to do this map than my prior ones! The biggest advantage of learning this method is you can use it for any other tiled map you can get textures for, and you can use them in any of the virtual tabletop online gaming sites, though I imagine porting your Wurm deed would be against EULA if you used the game textures. Found there is unused Forest texture that is lighter more organic than Grass, use that in the base layer then have a layer to keep track of trees themselves (like the oak or willow you wait for sprouts and oldage) those are in texture/trees as combo bark and foilage textures. texture/sprite/Fields also has the combo textures for the farmer to add a layer to keep track of crops. These will need some cut/paste work, and need to see if patterns support alpha transparency or if I need to use those as a brush.

I got frustrated with buggy Wurm deed mappers, one constantly gave my video card the purple screen of death, the other had buggy saves, had to restart when I expanded my deed because resize did not work, etc, etc, etc. Then I realized all those programmers are doing is trying to write a paint program that is restricted to tiles, so why not just use an already debugged paint program in the first place and restrict your painting to tiles? So I give you the following appnote for how to do this with GIMP version 2.8.2. Yes I know it is a wall of text, no desire to write a tutorial with cut/paste dialog boxes and big red circles on them saying to click here only to have people complain the latest greatest version changed the dialog boxes. Refer to the wurm help manual for the concepts of layers and patterns and brushes, I am not a GIMP expert so if you have a better way post and I will try it and update the wall of text. http://www.gimp.org/downloads/ Getting the texture maps fit for patterns use an archiver to unpack wurm/packs/graphics.jar to a directory called wurm/unpack/graphics open with GIMP each .jpg in wurm/unpack/graphics/texture/terrain Image->Scale Image to 1"x1" at 72dpi File->Export the .jpg with a new .pat suffix to wurm\unpack\graphics\texture\terrain\patterns use the texture name for the description In Gimp Edit->Preferences->Folders->Patterns Trash the default pattern folders and use this writable folder wurm\unpack\graphics\texture\terrain\patterns Adjust the Grid defaults Edit->Preferences->Tool Options->Snap Distance 36, Save Tool Options Now Edit->Preferences->Default Grid->Crosshairs, 1" spacing and 1/2" offset Edit->Preferences->ImageWindows->Appearance->Show Grid In the Clone Tool, select the Brush and at the bottom 'Open the Brush Selection Dialog, right click to make a new box brush of radius 72 hardness/aspect 1 Exit gimp and reload to get the patterns loaded Making your default background map File->New Image Size X by Y inches at 72dpi (1 tile per inch - if you change this be sure to change your grids and patterns!) View->Snap to Grid (apparently this cannot be default!) Change the ruler view at bottom left to inches. The annoying 1/2" offset is necessary because the pattern brush has a center origin First Layer is defaulted to Background Bucket Fill -> Pattern Fill->Grass, edit this for local default background areas like water and rock, then detail the edges between them on the other layers. In layer tab Lock and View. Make a black background layer for mining if you want. Create a New Layer called Over for terraforming Wurm Create a New Layer called Prospect (or one for each Metal) Create a New Layer called Mine. Create a New Layer called Grid, view it or not. Select the Grid layer and Filter->Render->Pattern->Grid with 1" spacing and 0" offset. In layer tab Lock and View the Grid layer. It should always be the top layer. Make the largest possible deed that fits in your memory as your starter project then use Image->Canvas Size to reduce the inches for starting new deeds. Ignore the warnings about big images. If you ever expand your deed, use this same menu and fill the blank areas on the Background layer. Painting your map Paint on the Over, Under, and Prospect layers using Clone -> Source -> Pattern with registered alignment, using the 72px box brush. Select Dynamics off and Hard edge Point and click (and hold) to make your map. If you go too fast it will half fill the tile, since Wurm does not do that just repaint! If you make a mistake just erase with the same brush to reveal the default grass. Snap is relaxed if you zoom in so be careful not to misplace tiles. Add other layers for text, deed/perimeter as you see fit. Have yet to investigate how to best do objects and fences, I presume there must be some way to get overhead views outlined in black that could be brushes or patterns. Saving to Gimp .xcf format a 128 sq. blank grass deed was 251MB, a 100% quality jpg was half that but xporting to .png it compresses significantly due to repeated patterns to just over 3MB without loss of quality, even though it is a 9k sq. image. Stay in the .xcf format to keep your layers though! Prospect and Mine Open the Cave and Vein tiles and save them as 1" 72 dpi .pat files. The Vein tiles are too subtle, so tint them using Colors-->Colorize->Hue, Saturation and Lightness as you prefer. Create a Mine layer above (not below) the Prospect layer, each set to 50% Opacity. Change your Eraser and Clone brush to be size 504. With your first prospect pass, use the desired Ore Vein tile. For the second pass use the Cave tile for rock or unwanted ore tiles, to narrow down where the actual Ore Vein is. If you find different types of ores than repeat this but use the 72 size brush to manually fill in the 7x7 tile area to avoid coloring in the other ore veins you already found. You have to use one Prospect layer for all ore for Opacity to work, but you could temporarily do different Ores on different layers to find out where the veins are then bring them back to the Prospect layer,. Set brush size back to 72 and fill the Mine layer with the Distance-Cave tile, erasing tiles to mine, and update the side walls with the Reinforced-Cave tile, updating the Prospect layers if you find any other veins. Cave door tiles are in wurm\unpack\graphics\structures\cave-doors. As usual do Image->Scale Image->1" 72dpi but do not save as a pattern, instead make a brush using 'Edit->Copy Visible' and 'Edit->Paste as->New Brush' giving it a name and file. (The save script is bugged and errors out if the default brush dirs are removed). Use the pencil tool and find the brush just made, use the 72 size and rotate 0, 90, 180 or 270. Stamp it on both your mine and terrain layer to connect them visually. Once you have your bearings increase the Prospect layer Opacity to 100%, and for fun also increase your Mine layer to 100% Opacity. TBD For the Reinforced Cave tile I wanted the beam only so it can be done like a fence, but I cannot figure out how to make the brush be a transparent square with the beam on one side. In the below example I tinted Gold as Yellow though it is only prospected so is a Dark Yellow Brown and tinted Lead as Blue-Gray, which I uncovered mining my way down and over to the Gold vein (hard to see at 48, 58). The Mine layer I put at 60%. so you can barely make out the mine door, since the cave and distance-cave tiles blend to look like a door just set the Mine layer to 100% if you need to find the door. Expanding your deed Maybe you are a greedy land baron expanding to hold more peasant, or maybe live in a shack exploring where to put your mansion, or a friendly neighbor wanting to know the way to the neighbors, or decide to become a cartographer and want to map out the corner of the world. GIMP seems efficient at virtual memory management when layers and patterns are used, it tells you at the bottom of the screen what your memory footprint is. If you think you have the memory, then expand! Image->Canvas Size redefine your new X,Y inches (tiles) using the mouse to slide your old map within the new one, or just type in the offset in inches, and Resize All Layers. Fill the whitespace on your default background with the grass or water tile as necessary. He who owns the map, owns the world. But don't be depressed when you setup a pixel per tile zoom and see how small your corner really is. View->Dot for Dot and View->Zoom->Other 1:72. If too tiny for you then try 1:36. If you want to contribute a pixel per tile map to your community effort then select your layers you want visible, then Image->Scale Image and simply change your dimensions from inches to pixels and File->Export as a .png. You might want to repaint your roads though as cobblestone tends to blend in to the grass, the 'distance-cave' is a good black tile, or the 'undetail' tile for a grey one. Make sure not to save the resized version over your original .xcf!

I almost tried that workaround, varying perimeter vs. deed, the problem was my outer perimeter ended up the same corner was touching because I wanted to cover my mine door and I did not realize their corner was just one diag. tile over, the land is confusing because it is a diagonal shoreline where I am. So get skinny, then get tall, then get fat is a suitable workaround? I did decide to do an alt yesterday as I messed up my cooking skills not realizing you really do have to grind paired recipes within your level rather than just throwing things together in one pan because you are hungry like a real survivor . So that alt will get the foot deed of a combined L as my tedious mapping indicated the the leg of an L down the cliffs will give me a small triangle of unclaimed waterfront that does not even have a connected highway yet, so that is worth the decay cost of vineyards and pasture being internal perimeter and the hassle of being on alts. So I will try that iterative resize approach when I redeed this weekend, hope don't have to wait 24hrs on each resize though! I do think cutting cross corners that is the issue, but I am waiting for the last wall of a 3x5 house to fall before I can start the deed already past the corner rather than just resizing perimeter over the decaying house. Was 96% dmg last night but I waited for hours and it never changed.

I have manually surveyed the deed tokens, deed and perimeter borders and connecting roads. The deed the survey allowed me to create puts my southwest corner on their northeast corner. Thus when I try to expand north-south their east perimeter would border my west perimeter, and the bug is that the east-west border check applies the north-south dimensions in the east-west direction for this literal corner case, even though north-south expansion would fit just fine.

If implemented then dig to pocket goes away in favor of dig to cart if not dig to pile within reach. Then taking dirt from cart or pile goes to pocket for dropping? Flattening often says if you would have some dirt in the pocket it will take care of the left over corners, so at some point you need to carry some dirt.

I prefer birchwood for fuel, and pinewood for structure with a thin veener of cedarwood mostly because I have way more pine than cedar and only the last wood counts. Technically this is realistic of Earth, look at any cedar drawer for your clothes and it is just a veneer over pine! oak for tools, charcoal, and wine barrels, again because I presume the Earth way is the Wurm way. for fruitwood, how about support for BBQ and smokers! Deer jerkey smoked with applewood....yum.

The first post option worked for me with the latest update. I use desktop shortcut, the new version installs a shortcut so hopefully this is no longer an issue.

NO.... Even though you think you want it, once you get it you realize that was not what you really wanted. When you get to 90 in a day? Then what? You quit after a month and go play another fast paced game because there is no grind left to do, because you already 'beat' the game. Then the devs have to pander to you to keep you, and like all the other MMOs you end up with an endless stream of monthly releases with new contents nerfing the old contents. Which you quickly raid thru in a week and whine till next month threatening to rage quit if you don't get what you want. Yes they need to improve the game mechanics to avoid carpal tunnel in the mouse hand, but this is an issue of UI design and not game mechanics. Why no sticky submenus or hotbars like Windows? Why a three-deep menu that can only take horizontal/vertical mouse movements, when even Windows nerfed that UI design with dynamic palettes and ribbon bars?

Worth bumping again for more opinions from someone just past the noob stage (meaning I am no longer shack squatting and dying every hour). The tutorial really skips a lot of need to survive information. Rummaging for iron and melting it in the fire is not covered in the tutorial and should be. No need for infinite newb iron mines, you can get enough to make some nails for your noob shack this way. And I had no idea that you don't need a flint to start a campfire, teaching that survival method means the flint becomes simply a get it done easier faster item - though steel and flint are not noob acquisitions so maybe there can be an intermediate fire start method after rubbing sticks together like making an iron piston to ignite shavings (carved from kindling). Public mines are also easily found and supported if there is a neighbor village that encourages folks to move on rather than setting up a blacksmith shop using the public resource. Make the hatchet have very low QL sickle capability, so that when the noob is chopping down trees he sees the option to get a sprout, and include this in the tutorial. The one thing you are sure of is no noob can plant trees even if they want to, not everyone may become a Green thumb and upgrade to a sickle but at least they will have the opportunity to plant trees before making the wiki discovery about the sickle. I agree this is the same situation as carving knife vs. butcher knife. Make it so the hatchet instead gets sprouts from freshly chopped down trees rather than living trees so the sickle is needed if to start tree/grass/bush farms from wild sprouts. If we have magic spawning survival tools then so should the compass. You can already drop noob tools once you make replacements, though it means you do not respawn with it the compass does not need to be a non-drop. Teach the sunrise/sunset (is there a north star?) positions with the compass tutorial so that if you do lose it you can figure out where you are rather than getting lost because one mistakes Wurm for Earth! Rather than goal trees I prefer that the tutorial teach religion, without the wiki you have no idea how to go about this. I had starter missions from all the gods with each contesting for my favor that I did not do because they consisted of the fetch 100 stupid things variety when I was in survival mode. Instead they could give starter goals for their area of focus that teaches the noob what the next steps are disguised as competing for their favor and if you refuse a deities missions good luck choosing that deity (Fo is farming, Vynora is fishing, etc). If you skill up those areas then the god tells you to seek a priest and convert as you are considered worthy of their favour. Make these tutorials and goal trees opt out for alts, only force the new accounts thru them. I want to start an alt but really really do not want to do that tutorial world again. Just give option to spawn me at the end to choose my server.

Looking for others that can trial survey and manually examine borders to be sure expansion possible in one dimension but not the other. Does survey complain you can't expand because the other dimension you are not changing is infringing? Did you expand your survey to the point of infringement only to find out after examining tiles outside your borders and find they are of the lands of wurm rather than the neighbors perimeter? Bugs only get looked at if others say they have the same problem, so please help out! If someone else can expand then there is something else going on here.

It would be part of farm and vineyard in my case for the L corner. I really just want the decay reducing deed on the fence and shacks as griefers are rare in the mountains, lot easier for them to cruise the shoreline and leave mountain folk alone! I could do a better L if free to deed to neighbors actual perimeters because then the dual buffer of an L is short vertical rather than wide horizontal. If anyone wants to try resizing to verify you can always cancel after the survey markers at no cost, and the survey markers are annoying for only a little while especially if you are iterating and you get many markers! This has nothing to do with dual L deeds, that is just my workaround idea, a single deed with only a close neighbor on one side is all that is needed. I could not find anything on the forum about this and seems like it would have come up right away when rectangle deeds became possible. You do need to have freedom to move in one dimension though, so maybe everybody is locked in on all sides and did not realize the bug is there, or did they just trust what the survey said rather than pacing out their own map?

No it is only 9x 11y in cardinal directions from the deed marker which totals +4 on one side, I ended up more square since the bug was preventing both the x and y I wanted. I also tried it with extra perimeter rather than deed and survey still thought it was interfering with my neighbors x. So as long as you are sure it is 4:1 aspect limit as I did read some some forum confusion if it was +4 allowing for only slightly rectangular, others have said they have very rectangular deeds that go beyond +4. I may still do the L-shaped two deed workaround even if the bug is fixed as my cliff diving attempts at survey I realize there is a lot of unclaimed waterfront cliff north of my neighbor just crying for a hidden boat entrance, just need to decide if that is worth the downsides of 5+5 perimeter in the middle of the L! So I would rather have a deed just for the cliff and have my main deed cover all my buildings with a single deed, which means fixing it so my aspect can run to my North and West neighbors actual bounds.

When attempting to resize the North South vertical the deed form complained that I cannot expand in that direction because it infringes on my West neighbor! For adjustment by one in NS dimension I have to adjust the EW dimension by one for survey to succeed. It seems both perimeter and deed size survey checks are using the longest deed dimension as if square rather than rectangular when it should use the narrower dimension of the rectangle since that is the bounding side. It may also be initial sizing that is bugged, but I started small so can only verify resizing. I live on a mountain and the 'infringement' is for a waterfront property whose perimeter line is at least 5-10 away from my perimeter, but I always fall down the cliff trying to verify the actual line. I am currently building off deed/perimeter structures above the cliff in the wild between us in hopes this gets fixed as this currently limits my NS length and my EW width despite a large gap between W perimeters. I am willing to attempt resize while a dev/GM watches online if needed for debugging, eastern US time zone 8pm-12am. If not fixed I guess I will have a priest alt deed a fitting southern square while my main deeds the remaining northern section where there is no western neighbor, but that is a poor workaround that leaves a 5+5 perimeter in the NS middle that I want to be a proper deed.